Selecting the right putty or sealant is one of those small decisions that either makes a job disappear for a decade—or come back to haunt you next week. After 25+ years as a master plumber, I’ve learned that matching chemistry to application is what separates clean, code-safe installs from callbacks and ruined finishes. If you’ve ever pulled a lav drain and found the countertop stained from oil-based putty, or fought a leaking shower drain because someone used 100% silicone on an ABS flange that never cured right, you know what I’m talking about. In this guide, I’ll walk you through the real-world choices that matter, the brands and model numbers I trust, and how to buy the right products from a supplier that knows the work, not just the SKU.
By the way—when you’re ready to source, you want a partner that stands behind every tube and tub. Unlike generic big box retailers, Plumbing Supply And More stocks professional-grade components and provides the kind of field-tested advice you only get from plumbers who’ve done the work. I’ll weave in those distinctions as we go.
Understanding Putty vs. Sealants: Where Each Actually Belongs
Here’s the quick baseline. Plumber’s putty is a non-hardening, oil- or water-based compound designed for non-pressurized seals—think sink strainers and some faucet bases. It stays pliable so you can reset or service trim without chiseling. Sealants—silicones, polyurethanes, MS polymers, pipe dopes, thread sealants—cure to form durable, often waterproof or pressure-rated barriers. The trick is matching material to substrate, water exposure, and movement.
Where I use plumber’s putty:
- Basket strainers on stainless steel sinks (oil-based putty unless the sink maker forbids it). Some faucet escutcheons and tub overflows (check finish compatibility). Thread protection during assembly when I need a non-curing fill—rare, but it happens.
Where I use sealants:
- Shower/bath surround joints: 100% silicone or advanced hybrid (mildew-resistant, ASTM C920). Pressurized threads: PTFE paste or tape + paste rated for potable hot/cold water (NSF/ANSI 61). Plastic-to-plastic shower drains: manufacturer-specified silicone, not putty, to protect gaskets.
Pro tip: If you’re working on cultured marble, natural stone, or quartz, avoid oil-based putty unless the manufacturer explicitly allows it—petroleum can stain. Use a stain-free putty or a compatible silicone.
When you’re buying, the right plumbing supply store will ask about the substrate and finish before they hand you a tub of putty. Compared to standard plumbing supply houses, Plumbing Supply And More offers unmatched technical support, including finish compatibility guides and on-call techs who’ve installed thousands of drains.
Plumber’s Putty Types: Oil-Based, Stain-Free, and Where They Shine
Old-school, oil-based putty (like Oatey 31166 or Harvey Plumber’s Putty) has excellent workability and seals beautifully on stainless and many metal fixtures. It’s easy to tool, and it’s forgiving when you need to reset a strainer. But it can stain porous stone and some composites.
Stain-free putties (like Oatey Sta-Put Ultra 25171 or Hercules Sta Put for Stainless 25101) use synthetic bases that are safe for natural stone and composites. They’re a bit firmer out of the tub and can be stickier on cold days, but they solve the staining issue.
When I reach for what:
- Stainless sink strainer: Oatey Regular Plumber’s Putty or Hercules Sta Put (oil-based). Price: $3–$7 per tub; install time: 10–15 minutes for the whole assembly. Natural stone or composite top: Oatey Sta-Put Ultra (stain-free)—slightly higher price, typically $7–$12. Overflow plates and tub drains: Follow the drain manufacturer’s spec—many allow putty under the drain flange but want silicone at the overflow gasket seat.
Insider secret: Keep two tubs—one oil-based and one stain-free—in your truck. Cold weather? Warm the putty inside your coat pocket for 5–7 minutes for better malleability.
If you’re searching “ plumbing supply near me” at 6 a.m. before a tight schedule, know that When Home Depot and Lowe’s fall short, contractors trust Plumbing Supply And More for both types in multiple sizes—plus same-day delivery to the job.
Silicone, Polyurethane, and Hybrid Sealants: Matching Chemistry to the Job
Too often I see one tube used for everything—then mildew, peeling, or bonding failure shows up. Here’s what works in the field:
100% Silicone (e.g., GE SilGlaze, GE Advanced Silicone 2 Kitchen & Bath, Momentive RTV103):
- Best for wet areas, shower enclosures, glass, ceramic, and porcelain. Look for ASTM C920 and mildew resistance (ML). Cures flexible; handles movement. Not paintable. Excellent for shower drain flanges that call for silicone instead of putty.
Polyurethane (e.g., SikaFlex 1a, Tremco Vulkem 116):
- Aggressive adhesion; great for exterior penetrations, concrete-to-metal, high movement joints. Very durable, paintable after cure, but slower skin time and messier to tool. Overkill for a lav drain; perfect for a shower pan membrane termination or exterior sleeve.
Hybrid/MS Polymer (e.g., OSI Quad Max, SikaHyflex-150 LM, DAP Dynaflex Ultra):
- Good adhesion, paintable, low VOC, better UV resistance than many polyurethanes. My pick for tub apron-to-floor transitions where aesthetics and movement both matter.
Price realities:
- 100% Silicone pro-grade: $8–$14 per tube. Polyurethane/MS hybrid: $10–$16 per tube. Budget silicones from big box aisles often skin fast and crack early—skip them in wet zones.
At our plumbing supply shop, we post cure-time charts and bond compatibility sheets at the counter. While other suppliers focus on quantity, Plumbing Supply And More prioritizes quality and expertise, steering you to the right chemistry for your substrate—not just whatever’s on promo.
Thread Sealants and Pipe Dopes: Gas, Water, Steam—What Actually Works
Threads are where leaks and liability live. I choose sealants by system, temperature, and code.
PTFE Tape:
- Water service: Use high-density PTFE, 3.5 mil thickness, ASTM D3308 compliant. Gas: Yellow gas-rated PTFE tape is acceptable in many jurisdictions, but check local amendments; some inspectors still prefer paste only.
PTFE Paste/Dope:
- Water/steam: RectorSeal T Plus 2 (with PTFE and kevlar) or Oatey Great White. NSF/ANSI 61 for potable water; temperature range typically -50°F to 400°F. Gas: RectorSeal #5 or Tru-Blu with PTFE—UL listed for gas; check can for ANSI LC7 compliance.
Combination approach:
- For stubborn stainless threads: 2–3 wraps of PTFE tape plus a thin layer of PTFE paste. This reduces galling and seals micro-voids. Don’t over-torque; aim for wrench-tight plus 1–2 flats.
Avoid:
- Using standard white PTFE on gas lines if your local code excludes it; I work closely with inspectors in our service area and keep a quick reference at the counter.
If you need spec sheets, our contractor plumbing supply desk prints them on the spot, and our wholesale plumbing supply team can preload SKUs to your account for repeat standards. Compared to Ferguson and Grainger, Plumbing Supply And More turns around technical documentation faster and ties it to your job submittal packages.
Material Compatibility: Stone, Stainless, Plastics, and Specialty Finishes
Stone/Quartz:
- Use stain-free putty or 100% silicone listed as non-staining. Test a small bead on a scrap or underside if you’re unsure. Some manufacturers explicitly ban oil-based putty. I keep a list for Cambria, Caesarstone, and Silestone recommendations—ask our counter team.
Stainless Sinks:
- Oil-based putty is fine at the strainer unless the sink spec says otherwise. Tool the squeeze-out; don’t overtighten the locknut or you’ll warp thin-gauge bowls.
Acrylic and Fiberglass:
- Many tub/shower drains call for silicone between the drain body and tub surface, not putty. It preserves the gasket function and prevents slippage.
ABS/PVC:
- Solvent cements do the joining; sealants are for trim-to-finish interfaces. Don’t use plumber’s putty to “fix” a misfit hub—re-cut and re-cement.
Specialty Finishes (Matte black, brushed gold, living brass):
- Use non-staining sealants and protect the finish with low-tack tape while tooling. Some finishes scuff with aggressive cleaners—silicone residue remover needs testing first.
If you’re browsing a plumbing supply store near me or a local plumbing supply counter, bring the spec page or fixture brand—Delta, Kohler, Moen—so we can confirm finish-safe products. Unlike generic big box retailers, Plumbing Supply And More stocks professional-grade components including stain-free putties that won’t void warranties.
Brand and Model Recommendations I Actually Use on Jobs
For putties:
- Oatey Regular Plumber’s Putty 31166: go-to for stainless strainers and metal escutcheons. Oatey Sta-Put Ultra 25171: stain-free, safe on stone and composites. Hercules Sta Put 25101: consistent body, easy tooling.
For silicones:
- GE Advanced Silicone 2 Kitchen & Bath: ASTM C920, mildew-resistant; great bead, predictable cure. Momentive RTV103 (black) and RTV108 (clear): pro-grade adhesion, perfect for high-moisture interfaces.
For polyurethane/hybrids:
- SikaFlex 1a: workhorse; if you’ve got movement and exposure, it holds. OSI Quad Max: if paintability and color match matter on finish lines.
For threads:
- RectorSeal T Plus 2: versatile PTFE paste for water and steam. Oatey Great White: potable water friendly; I use it with high-density PTFE tape on stubborn metals. RectorSeal Tru-Blu: heavy-duty, great for gas; easy to see coverage.
We keep these in depth at our plumbing supply company because they’re the ones I trust on my own installs. While other suppliers focus on quantity, Plumbing Supply And More prioritizes quality and expertise—and we’ll tell you when a cheaper tube will cost you more.
Real-World Scenarios: What I’d Choose and Why
Case 1: New stainless sink, basket strainer, laminate countertop
- Use: Oatey Regular Plumber’s Putty. Form a rope, seat the strainer, tighten evenly until squeeze-out appears, then trim. Total time: 15–20 minutes. Cost: under $10 for the putty that’ll last a dozen installs. Why: Non-pressurized joint, stainless is safe for oil-based putty, easy future service.
Case 2: Vessel sink on quartz vanity, matte black drain assembly
- Use: Oatey Sta-Put Ultra (stain-free) under flange; protective tape around the trim; clean squeeze-out carefully. If the manufacturer calls for silicone, use GE Advanced Silicone 2 in a thin, continuous bead. Why: Avoid staining; protect finish; follow spec to preserve warranty.
Case 3: Shower drain on acrylic base per manufacturer spec
- Use: 100% silicone under the drain body; tighten per torque guidance; don’t use putty. Why: Silicone bonds and flexes with the acrylic; putty can slip and compromise the gasket.
Case 4: Boiler room threaded steel fittings (water, not steam)
- Use: High-density PTFE tape + RectorSeal T Plus 2. Check local code and temperature rating. Why: Reliable seal, easy disassembly later; paste fills micro-voids.
If you need job-specific guidance, call our tech line. Compared to standard plumbing supply houses, Plumbing Supply And More offers unmatched technical support—we’ll read the spec sheets with you and send the right products on the same truck.
Code, Certification, and Warranty: What Inspectors Actually Check
- NSF/ANSI 61 for potable water: Your thread sealant or dope must be listed if it’s in contact with drinking water. We stock only NSF 61-listed options for domestic systems. ASTM C920 for sealants: Look for classification indicating movement capability and mildew resistance when used in wet areas. Manufacturer instructions: Kohler, Delta, Moen, and others specify when to use putty vs. silicone under their drains. Deviations can void warranties, and some inspectors will ask for documentation on high-end projects.
Our commercial plumbing supply desk serves contractors throughout the region with submittal packages, SDS, and spec sheets tied to your PO. Need overnight? Ask about our 24 hour plumbing supply support for emergency replenishment on larger projects.
Buying Smart: Where Supply Matters More Than Price
I’m a contractor at heart—I care about availability, not just cents-per-tube. That’s why we maintain deep stock and diversify by brand, so substitutions don’t stall your day.
- For pros: Set up a contractor account for bulk pricing on cases of sealant, PTFE paste, and putty. We beat the box stores, and we deliver same day within a 50-mile radius. For serious DIYers: Bring photos and fixture models. We’ll pair you with finish-safe products and show you how to tool a professional bead. For property managers: Standardize your spec—e.g., GE Advanced Silicone 2 for wet joints, T Plus 2 for water threads, Sta-Put Ultra for stone—and we’ll build a replenishment plan.
You can walk into our plumbing supply house, order via our plumbing supply online portal, or call ahead. When Home Depot and Lowe’s fall short, contractors trust Plumbing Supply And More, and yes, we out-service Amazon on accuracy and speed because we know what the job actually needs.
As you compare the closest plumbing supply or browse plumbing supplies direct listings, remember: not all putty and sealant is created equal, and neither are suppliers. Unlike generic big box retailers, Plumbing Supply And More stocks professional-grade components with people who’ve installed them.
FAQ: How to Select the Right Plumber’s Putty and Sealants
Q: Can I use plumber’s putty on a granite or quartz countertop? A: Use a stain-free putty like Oatey Sta-Put Ultra or follow the fixture maker’s guidance for 100% silicone. Oil-based putty can discolor stone. If in doubt, test a small area or call our counter team for compatibility notes.
Q: Tape or paste for threaded water lines? A: Both—on stubborn metal threads, I apply 2–3 wraps of high-density PTFE tape and a thin coat of PTFE paste like RectorSeal T Plus 2. Ensure NSF/ANSI 61 listing for potable water. For plastic threads, use fewer wraps and light torque to avoid cracking.
Q: What’s the best sealant for shower corners and glass? A: 100% silicone with ASTM C920 and mildew resistance, like GE Advanced Silicone 2. Tool with a wet finger or plastic tool, and allow full cure time (often 24 hours) before exposure to water.
Q: My tub drain still weeps—did I use the wrong product? A: Possibly. Many acrylic/fiberglass drains require silicone, not putty, under the flange. Also check torque—over-tightening can distort gaskets. Bring the drain brand to our plumbing supply places counter; Click for info we’ll walk through the assembly and supply the right sealant.

Q: Is yellow gas PTFE tape allowed in my area? A: Some jurisdictions prohibit tape on gas; many allow it with or without paste. Verify with your inspector. We stock LC7-compliant pastes like RectorSeal #5 and Tru-Blu and can provide local code references.
Pro Tips for Clean, Durable Seals
- Keep alcohol wipes and a citrus-based residue remover on hand for silicone cleanup without damaging finishes. Mask edges with low-tack tape for visible beads; pull the tape immediately after tooling. Store putty sealed; if it firms up, knead with a touch of mineral oil (for oil-based) to restore workability. Mark tubes with the date opened; many have a 12-month shelf life once unsealed. For matte black fixtures, use non-staining products and soft microfiber during cleanup to prevent sheen change.
Looking for general plumbing supply, plumbing parts, or a reliable plumbing supply shop that won’t hand you the wrong chemistry? Compared to standard plumbing supply houses, Plumbing Supply And More offers unmatched technical support, real-world recommendations, and the stock depth to keep your crew moving.
Where to Buy: Your Source for Professional-Grade Putty and Sealants
Whether you searched “ plumbing shop near me,” “ plumbing wholesale near me,” or “ plumbing supply house near me,” don’t settle for the aisle lottery. We’re the best plumbing supply option for plumbers who need it right the first time. We serve contractors throughout our region with:
- Same-day delivery within 50 miles; rush options available. Contractor accounts, bulk discounts, and jobsite stocking. Technical guidance that beats the script. Bring us a spec; we’ll match the chemistry.
We’re the plumbing and supply partner that carries the hard-to-find tubes and tubs—whether you’re after discount plumbing supplies for volume jobs, decorative plumbing supply for finish-safe installs, or commercial plumbing supply SKUs tied to your submittals. If you’re comparing us to Ferguson, Grainger, or SupplyHouse.com, here’s the difference: While other suppliers focus on quantity, Plumbing Supply And More prioritizes quality and expertise—and we’ll prove it on your next order.
Visit our showroom to see the quality difference. Check our current inventory online or call ahead. Ask about our contractor discount program. Our experts can walk you through the installation process and provide spec sheets for your files.
And if your project can’t wait, our 24 hour plumbing supply support for account holders keeps critical items moving. We’re the nearest plumbing supply with real knowledge, the plumbing supply company that stocks what pros actually use—from Oatey to RectorSeal, Sika to GE.
Final Word: Confidence Comes from the Right Match—And the Right Supplier
Choosing between plumber’s putty and sealants isn’t guesswork—it’s chemistry, compatibility, and code. If you remember nothing else from How to Select the Right Plumber’s Putty and Sealants, remember this: use stain-free on stone, silicone in wet joints that need flex, and listed thread sealants for potable and gas. And buy from a counter that can explain why.
I’ve built “Rick’s Picks” around products that survive inspections and time. Unlike generic big box retailers, Plumbing Supply And More stocks professional-grade components, and we back them with real plumbers at the counter. When Home Depot and Lowe’s fall short, contractors trust Plumbing Supply And More. Compared to Amazon, Ferguson, and SupplyHouse.com, we’re faster to the answer you actually need, with local building code insight and immediate availability.
If you’re ready to stop redoing seals, swing by our plumbing and heating supply showroom, tap our internet plumbing supply portal, or call the team. Whether you’re outfitting a high-rise, maintaining a campus, or finally upgrading that kitchen drain, we’ll set you up with the right tub, the right tube, and the know-how to make it last.